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Sandy Powell (costume designer)

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Sandy Powell
OBE
Powell at the 2015 Vienna International Film Festival
Born (1960-04-07) 7 April 1960 (age 64)
London, England
Alma materCentral School of Art
OccupationCostume designer
Years active1985–present

Sandy Powell OBE, RDI (born 7 April 1960) is an English costume designer. In a career spanning over three decades, she is recognized for her prolific work across independent films and blockbusters. She has received numerous accolades, including three Academy Awards, three BAFTA Awards, and two Costume Designers Guild Awards. She has been the recipient of various honorary awards, including the BAFTA Fellowship in 2023. Powell was appointed Officer of the Order of the British Empire (OBE) in 2011.

Powell is best known for her collaborations with directors Derek Jarman, Neil Jordan, Todd Haynes and Martin Scorsese.[1][2][3][4] She has received 15 nominations for the Academy Award for Best Costume Design and has won three times for Shakespeare in Love (1998), The Aviator (2004), and The Young Victoria (2009). She has also been nominated for the BAFTA Award for Best Costume Design a record 16 times and had three wins for Velvet Goldmine (1998), The Young Victoria, and The Favourite (2018).

Early life and education

[edit]

Powell was born in London in 1960,[5] and grew up in Brixton and Clapham.[6] Her father worked in casinos, while her mother was a secretary.[7] Powell told fashion journalist Suzy Menkes in an episode of Menkes' podcast Creative Conversations that, despite their close friendship, she was not related to fellow costume designer Anthony Powell. Information about them being cousins has falsely spread online.[8] Powell learned to sew from her mother on a Singer sewing machine,[9] drew pictures of clothes, designed and made outfits for her dolls, and started making her own clothes from a young age.[10] She also developed an interest in film and theatre from an early age.[7]

Powell attended Sydenham High School,[9] and in 1978 she completed an art foundation course at Saint Martin's School of Art, where she became acquainted with Lea Anderson, who later became a dancer and choreographer as well as Powell's collaborator.[11] In 1979, Powell began a BA in theatre design at the Central School of Art and Design, but left after two years before completing her degree and started working for fringe theatre companies.[9][5]

Career

[edit]

1980–1997: Early work

[edit]
Powell at the 61st Berlin International Film Festival (2011)

After leaving Central, Powell began a working relationship with dancer and choreographer Lindsay Kemp, whom she greatly admired. She designed costumes for his productions, the first of which was the show Nijinsky at La Scala in Milan.[10][12] In the early 1980s, Powell became acquainted with filmmaker Derek Jarman, who became a mentor and an influential figure in her life.[7] Following Jarman's advice, she spent a year working on music videos.[13][14] She made her entry into the film industry in 1986, designing costumes for the Jarman film Caravaggio.[9]

In 1992, Powell achieved prominence in the period drama film Orlando, directed by Sally Potter.[12] Operating on a limited budget,[15] Powell created elaborate costumes for the gender-switching and time-traveling protagonist (played by Tilda Swinton), for which she received her first Academy Award nomination for Best Costume Design.[16] Powell also began a collaboration with director Neil Jordan, which would produce a total of six films including the crime thriller The Crying Game (1992), the gothic horror film Interview with the Vampire (1994) and the period drama Michael Collins (1996).[15]

1998–2017: Breakthrough

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Powell received dual nominations at the 71st Academy Awards for her two 1998 films, Velvet Goldmine and Shakespeare in Love. Echoing the contemporary tone of Shakespeare in Love, Powell opted to sacrifice historical accuracy in her costume designs but still managed to achieve "emotional accuracy", according to Salon critic Stephanie Zacharek. The detail on the costumes of Gwyneth Paltrow's Viola and the thematic significance of her costume changes were also noted as highlights of the film. For her work in the film, Powell won her first Academy Award for Best Costume Design.[16]

Costume worn by Emily Blunt in The Young Victoria, designed by Powell.

Following her win at the 71st Academy Awards, Powell began her collaboration with director Martin Scorsese, starting with his 2002 epic period drama film Gangs of New York, for which she earned her 5th Oscar nomination. The two reunited for the 2004 biographical drama film The Aviator, for which Powell won her second Academy Award.[17] In 2005 she worked on Stephen Frears' Mrs Henderson Presents earning another Academy Award nomination. She worked on Scorsese gain this time for a film set in modern-day creating current day clothing for the Boston crime drama The Departed (2006) starring Leonardo DiCaprio, Matt Damon, and Jack Nicholson. She then worked on the historical romantic drama The Other Boleyn Girl which was based on 2001 novel of the same name by Philippa Gregory. The film was directed by Justin Chadwick and starred Scarlett Johansson, Natalie Portman, and Eric Bana.

In 2009, She worked on the romantic period drama The Young Victoria directed by Jean-Marc Vallée.[18] The film starred Emily Blunt as Queen Victoria, and the film revolves around her upbringing and romance with Prince Albert of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha portrayed by Rupert Friend. She won her third Academy Award for Best Costume Design, and a BAFTA Award for Best Costume Design for her work on the film. The following year she worked on Scorsese's psychological thriller Shutter Island starring Leonardo DiCaprio and Julie Taymor's The Tempest with Helen Mirren. In 2011 she was nominated for the Academy Award for Best Costume Design her work on Scorsese's children's action adventure film Hugo losing to Mark Bridges for The Artist (2011).

Detail of the costume worn by Helen Mirren in The Tempest, designed by Powell.

In 2016, Powell received her second dual nominations at the 88th Academy Awards, having been recognized for her works in Kenneth Branagh's Disney live-action adaptation of Cinderella and for Todd Haynes' romantic drama Carol (2015). The later was based on the Patricia Highsmith novel The Price of Salt (1952). The film starred Cate Blanchett and Rooney Mara as starcrossed lovers in the 1950s.[19] She reunited with Haynes for the black and white film Wonderstruck (2017) starring Julianne Moore and Michelle Williams, based on the 2011 novel of the same name by Brian Selznick. She also served as an executive producer on the film.[20] That same year, she worked on the John Cameron Mitchell's wacky science fiction romantic comedy How to Talk to Girls at Parties (2017).

2018–present

[edit]

In 2019, Powell garnered her third dual nominations at the 91st Academy Awards for her works in Yorgos Lanthimos' The Favourite (2018) and Rob Marshall's Mary Poppins Returns (2018), making her the most nominated costume designer in Academy Awards history after Edith Head.[21] In 2020, Powell received her 15th Oscar nomination in her seventh collaboration with Martin Scorsese in his epic crime film The Irishman starring Robert De Niro, Al Pacino, and Joe Pesci. She shared the nomination with her co-designer, Christopher Peterson.[22][18]

In the same year, Powell collected many stars' signatures on a cream calico suit in a widely publicized tour of 2020 awards ceremonies, including the 92nd Academy Awards and 73rd British Academy Film Awards, to be auctioned to raise funds for the preservation of director Derek Jarman's home, Prospect Cottage.[23] She also did the costume design for the British drama Living (2021) starring Bill Nighy and the live action Disney film Snow White starring Rachel Zegler.

Filmography

[edit]
Year Title Director Notes
1986 Caravaggio Derek Jarman
1987 Aria Segment: "Depuis le jour"
The Last of England
1988 Stormy Monday Mike Figgis
For Queen and Country Martin Stellman
1989 Venus Peter Ian Sellar
Killing Dad Michael Austin aka Killing Dad (Or How To Love Your Mother)
Shadow of China Mitsuo Yanagimachi
1991 The Miracle Neil Jordan
The Pope Must Die Peter Richardson aka The Pope Must Diet!
Edward II Derek Jarman Also makes a cameo as Seamstress
1992 Orlando Sally Potter
The Crying Game Neil Jordan
1993 Wittgenstein Derek Jarman
1994 Being Human Bill Forsyth
Interview with the Vampire Neil Jordan
1995 Rob Roy Michael Caton-Jones
1996 Michael Collins Neil Jordan
1997 The Butcher Boy
The Wings of the Dove Iain Softley
1998 Velvet Goldmine Todd Haynes
Hilary and Jackie Anand Tucker
Shakespeare in Love John Madden
1999 Felicia's Journey Atom Egoyan
Miss Julie Mike Figgis
The End of the Affair Neil Jordan
2002 Far from Heaven Todd Haynes
Gangs of New York Martin Scorsese
2003 Sylvia Christine Jeffs
2004 The Aviator Martin Scorsese
2005 Mrs Henderson Presents Stephen Frears
2006 The Departed Martin Scorsese
2008 The Other Boleyn Girl Justin Chadwick
2009 The Young Victoria Jean-Marc Vallée
2010 Shutter Island Martin Scorsese
The Tempest Julie Taymor
2011 Hugo Martin Scorsese
2012 Suspension of Disbelief Mike Figgis
2013 The Wolf of Wall Street Martin Scorsese
2015 Cinderella Kenneth Branagh
Carol Todd Haynes
2017 Wonderstruck Also executive producer
How to Talk to Girls at Parties John Cameron Mitchell
2018 The Favourite Yorgos Lanthimos
Mary Poppins Returns Rob Marshall
2019 The Irishman Martin Scorsese Co-designed with Christopher Peterson
2020 The Glorias Julie Taymor
2021 Mothering Sunday Eva Husson
2022 Living Oliver Hermanus
2025 Snow White Marc Webb Post-production
The Bride! Maggie Gyllenhaal Filming

Theatre

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Year Production Notes
1990 Edward II Royal Shakespeare Company
1998 Doctor Ox's Experiment English National Opera
2024 Gatsby: An American Myth American Repertory Theater

Awards and nominations

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Major associations

[edit]

Academy Awards

Year[a] Category Nominated work Result Ref.
1994 Best Costume Design Orlando Nominated [24]
1998 The Wings of the Dove Nominated [25]
1999 Shakespeare in Love Won [26]
Velvet Goldmine Nominated
2003 Gangs of New York Nominated [27]
2005 The Aviator Won [28]
2006 Mrs Henderson Presents Nominated [29]
2010 The Young Victoria Won [30]
2011 The Tempest Nominated [31]
2012 Hugo Nominated [32]
2016 Carol Nominated [33]
Cinderella Nominated
2019 The Favourite Nominated [34]
Mary Poppins Returns Nominated
2020 The Irishman Nominated [35]

BAFTA Awards

Year[a] Category Nominated work Result Ref.
British Academy Film Awards
1994 Best Costume Design Orlando Nominated [36]
1995 Interview with the Vampire Nominated [37]
1998 The Wings of the Dove Nominated [38]
1999 Velvet Goldmine Won [39]
Shakespeare in Love Nominated
2000 The End of the Affair Nominated [40]
2003 Gangs of New York Nominated [41]
2005 The Aviator Nominated [42]
2006 Mrs Henderson Presents Nominated [43]
2010 The Young Victoria Won [44]
2012 Hugo Nominated [45]
2016 Carol Nominated [46]
Cinderella Nominated
2019 The Favourite Won [47]
Mary Poppins Returns Nominated
2020 The Irishman Nominated [48]
2023 BAFTA Fellowship — Honored [49]

Miscellaneous awards

[edit]
List of Sandy Powell other awards and nominations
Award Year[a] Category Title Result Ref.
Apolo Awards 2017 Best Costume Design Carol Nominated [50]
2020 The Favourite Won [51]
British Independent Film Awards 2005 Best Technical Achievement Mrs Henderson Presents (wardrobe) Nominated [52]
2017 Best Costume Design How to Talk to Girls at Parties Nominated [53]
2018 The Favourite Won [54]
2022 Living Nominated [55]
Camerimage 2015 Costume Designer with Unique Visual Sensitivity — Honored [56][57]
Capri Hollywood International Film Festival 2016 Best Costume Design Cinderella Won [58]
Capri Legend Award — Honored
2019 Best Costume Design Mary Poppins Returns Won [59]
Costume Designers Guild Awards 2005 Excellence in Period/Fantasy Film The Aviator Nominated [60]
2010 Excellence in Period Film The Young Victoria Won [61]
Career Achievement Award — Honored
2011 Excellence in Fantasy Film The Tempest Nominated [62]
2012 Excellence in Period Film Hugo Nominated [63]
2016 Excellence in Fantasy Film Cinderella Nominated [64]
Excellence in Period Film Carol Nominated
2019 The Favourite Won [65]
Mary Poppins Returns Nominated [66]
Critics' Choice Movie Awards 2010 Best Costume Design The Young Victoria Won [67]
2012 Hugo Nominated [68]
2016 (Jan) Carol Nominated [69]
Cinderella Nominated
2019 The Favourite Nominated [70]
Mary Poppins Returns Nominated
2020 The Irishman Nominated [71]
Empire Awards 2016 Best Costume Design Carol Nominated [72]
Cinderella Nominated
European Film Awards 2019 Best Costume Designer The Favourite Won [73]
Evening Standard British Film Awards 1992 Best Technical Achievement Edward II, The Miracle and The Pope Must Die Won [74]
1994 Orlando Won[b]
Genie Awards[c] 2000 Best Costume Design Felicia's Journey Nominated [75]
Hollywood Film Awards 2015 Hollywood Costume Design Award Cinderella Won [76]
2018 The Favourite Won [77]
London Film Critics' Circle Awards 2016 Technical Achievement of the Year Cinderella (costumes) Nominated [78]
2020 Dilys Powell Award — Honored [79]
Online Film Critics Society Awards 2003 Best Costume Design Far from Heaven Won [80]
Gangs of New York Nominated
San Diego Film Critics Society Awards 2018 Best Costume Design The Favourite Won [81]
Santa Barbara International Film Festival 2020 Variety Artisans Award The Irishman (costume design) Won [82]
Satellite Awards 1998 Best Costume Design The Wings of the Dove Nominated
1999 Shakespeare in Love Nominated
2003 Gangs of New York Nominated [83]
2005 (Jan) The Aviator Nominated [84]
2009 The Young Victoria Nominated [85]
2016 Cinderella Nominated [86]
2019 The Favourite Won [87]
2023 Living Nominated [88]
Saturn Awards 1995 Best Costume Design Interview with the Vampire Won [89]
2012 Hugo Nominated [90]
2016 Cinderella Nominated [91]
2019 Mary Poppins Returns Nominated [92]
Savannah Film Festival 2021 Variety’s Creative Impact in Costume Design — Honored [93]
Seattle Film Critics Society Awards 2016 Best Costume Design Carol Nominated [94]
Cinderella Nominated
2018 The Favourite Nominated [95]
Mary Poppins Returns Nominated
WFTV Awards 2005 AFM Lighting Craft Award — Honored [96]

Other honours

[edit]

Notes

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  1. ^ a b c Indicates the year of ceremony. Each year is linked to the article about the awards held that year, wherever possible.
  2. ^ Tied with Stuart Craig for The Secret Garden
  3. ^ merged into Canadian Screen Awards in 2012

References

[edit]
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  3. ^ "Todd Haynes: 'She said, there's a frock film coming up, with Cate attached … It sounded right up my alley'". The Guardian. 15 November 2015. Retrieved 18 January 2016.
  4. ^ "'American Horror Story,' 'Carol' Costume Designer and Director Teams Discuss Collaborations". Variety. 19 November 2015. Retrieved 18 January 2016.
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  6. ^ Dziautaite, Modesta (26 February 2006). "Sandy Powell: Behind the Silver Screen". 1 Granary. Retrieved 1 February 2020.
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